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A baseball cap turned upside down served as the starting point for the collection.Its silhouette resembled the hats worn by officials in ancient China.
Elsewhere, familiar wardrobe staples such as denim jackets, bombers, puffers and knitwear are given enormous rounded fronts, with sleeves joining into a single uninterrupted volume, recalling the proportions of traditional Chinese dress.
For Spring/Summer 2027, chöke explores the unlikely combinations of contemporary China, where Western influences meet traditional forms and familiar objects take on new meanings.
A trench coat is constructed from a bamboo sleeping mat commonly found in southern Chinese homes. Sichuan peppercorn, known for its numbing sensation, inspires the label’s first fragrance. Its bottle is made from reclaimed wooden furniture, topped with a cap modelled on a disposable plastic bottle top.
“I was thinking about how we could make something look Chinese without using the very obvious elements,” says Neil, who spent seven years of his childhood in China. The collection revisits his roots through unexpected combinations of the traditional and the contemporary, the familiar and the unfamiliar.
Having spent the past year in Paris working at Louis Vuitton and Jean Paul Gaultier, Neil continues to explore the possibilities of everyday clothing.
On 7 November 2026, chöke will present its Spring/Summer 2027 collection at LN-CC in London, alongside a new campaign photographed by Julian Song.